The Swartberg Pass


Recognised as one of the most spectacular mountain passes in the world, the 27km Swartberg Pass is within a few minutes drive of De Bergkant Lodge. 
An untarred road winds to the summit 1 583 metres above sea level in steep zig-zags and sudden switchbacks,  with breath-taking views at every turn. The road to Gamkaskloof  - "The Hell" lies near the summit of the pass.

The entrance to the pass is through a narrow Cape sandstone gorge where the eye is drawn upwards by the convoluted rock faces to the sparkling sky above. The only sounds are bubbling water, the wind in the trees and birdsong. Several picnic sites near the river provide tranquil spots to stop and absorb the peace and splendour.

As you drive on you gain your first sight of the valleys and peaks of the Swartberg Pass. The natural characteristics of the Pass are magnificent, as are the man-made features. This was Thomas Bain's last engineering masterpiece (1888). His construction philosophy, which has stood the test of time was: "A good hat and good boots". Convict labour  built the dry stone walls which support the gravel road. 

Dry-stone walls - an engineering feat

The dry stone packed retaining walls are remarkable, in one place on the southern side a stretch of wall extends for 2,4kms. They range in height from 1/2 metre to 13 metres. Laws of friction and cohesion govern the pressure on retaining walls. The bed (ledge, base or shelf) measures up to 1 metre narrowing to 300mm at the top. Selected stone was used and laid with the grain at right angles to the natural bedding line. The walls were battered (sloped inward) in a rise of 1:6. To illustrate the scale of the highest sections of the walls, Boegoekloof measures 13,1 metres vertically and the second hairpin on the north, 7,3 metres. Pressure on the roadway through traffic has compacted and secured the walls and roadway.

The larger stones on the ledge bedding provided good drainage but further provision was necessary. Bain's original specifications give "rule of thumb" measurements and clear instructions as to how many culverts, side drains etc. there were to be, but it is not stated how he arrived at these specifications. What is clear is that they appear adequate, for after more than a century of rain the walls are essentially still in place and until recently, suffered little or no damage.

In September 2000, a concerned group of design and construction professionals from Prince Albert initiated a crisis meeting with the Provincial and District Roads Engineers to discuss their difficulties in providing adequate maintenance of the Pass after bouts of heavy rains over the previous three years. The meeting resulted in all concerned walking the Pass to discuss specific problem areas and a folio of photographs and drawings was handed over. The Pass underwent specialist maintenance and Prince Alberters were delighted to see their old friend (declared a National Monument in its Centenary year 1988) receiving a comprehensive facelift. 

Stone was the building material of choice so along the pass visitors can see the ruins of stone buildings: an old prison, toll hut, hotel and other interesting historical sites.

Often covered in snow in winter, the mountains' unique micro-climate supports fynbos and a rich bird population, in contrast with the arid zone flora and fauna outside its cool, shady gorges. Numerous small mice and voles feed on the vegetations providing food for the birds of prey which include black eagles. Sure-footed klipspringers are often seen scaling sheer rock faces and baboons keep watch from craggy perches.

Travel into the pass to reach the road to "The Hell".

Hiking in the Swartberg Pass

There are a number of options for hiking in the Swartberg Mountains, from day hikes to a demanding five day hike. The best months for hiking are April/May and September/October. Details and permits are available from the CapeNature Office in Oudtshoorn. Tel: 044 279 1739, fax: 044 272 8110. You must have a permit to hike in the Swartberg Pass. 

PERMITS FOR DAY HIKES are available from CapeNature Office in Oudtshoorn. Tel: 044 279 1739, fax: 044 272 8110.

 

 


"Paradise close to Hell, where you find yourself part of the family and not a visitor. The best place on the Planet."